May 8, 2006

Because two weeks out of the desert is just too long

I am not a nerd.

I’ve already started thinking about the next trip. In summer. A decade of work on the book, and I’ve been in the Mojave summer for exactly five days. I need to go and sit and observe and take notes and not flinch from the heat. Probably July, maybe August.

Last year Matthew and I went to the Mojave in late July to look at the aftermath of the Hackberry fire. The temperature was in triple digits. Matthew snapped the photo above as I engaged in the unforgivable act of firing up the computer in the middle of the goddamn desert. Then we decided it wasn’t hot enough at 5500 feet and headed for Badwater, 282 feet below sea level, where it was a comfortable temperature somewhat in excess of the 117 in the shade they recorded up the road at Furnace Creek.

It occurs to me that I weigh thirty pounds less than I did in the photo above, which means I’ll be able to shed heat even more efficiently. Come on, summer.

That’s Teutonia Peak in the background, by the way. I’ve clumb it more times than I can count, except for the last thirty feet to the summit, which is straight up.

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There are times in the summer when a camping trip in the desert works well.  Up here we learn to rainsleep in tents, sometimes for a couple of days or more.  Hiding in caves or in well ventilated and covered tents makes those peak heat times of day palatable in the desert.  Then dusk to dawn becomes the most amazing and wondrous experience.

Chris, is that the little camping area by Sunrise Rock where you’re sitting in the photo?  I camped there on my way to and from Utah last month.  I liked it, except for being right by Cima Road - the occasional traffic was too unnervingly close to get the feeling of solitude I crave, but it was very convenient (TOO convenient) to I-15.  And the abundant broken glass and the constant rail traffic across the valley reminded me of Oroville a little too much!  I did hike around on Cima Dome on the homeward leg, and found it a wonderland of granite, J-trees and cactus gardens (and no people).  I missed where the Teutonia Peak trail turns off, and wandered south on the road between the higher parts of the Dome and Cima Road.  There are some beautiful likely-looking campsites about a mile or so south, around and under some large junipers near another granite crag I climbed.  Can you get there in a vehicle, or are the roads gated?  I thought perhaps the road to Valley View Ranch or a branch from it might get me there, but I was uncertain about exploring back roads in that area with my Saturn loaded down for a road trip - although there’s probably nowhere else I’d rather be forced to bivuoac, I’d hate to have to get towed out.  I’d certainly backpack in - perhaps having the car would be an unnecessary intrusion (no plutonic pun intended) - but I could bring more water and stay longer with it.  And, if you don’t wish to divulge too much info here, you can e-mail me - or not, if you think it’s better kept to those who know or are willing to explore.  Thanks, Fred

You’re about 500 yards off. Take a look at this map. The little white inverted “y” whose prongs meet Cima Road on the inside of the S curve in mid-map are where Sunrise Rock is. The spot where I usually camp is right at the northernmost bump in the road that runs east-ish from there toward the straight north-south white road. There’s a larger, group-camping type site at the junction of my road and the north-south one, and many nice campsites as you head north along that road.

North along Cima Road from Sunrise Rock, the straight white road running southwest is Valley View Ranch road. The Sierra Club California Desert guide describes some campsites reachable by that direction, though you need to be careful not to drive onto the ranch property itself. There’s a road that runs from near the ranch down toward the east face of Teutonia Peak, and I’ve walked that road, and it seems not too rough and replete with suitable dispersed campsites.

Towing is available at Cima Road and I-15, 11 miles from Sunrise Rock and all downhill.

These days Park Rangers seem to drive that road in an F-150 fairly often, unlike the days in which the Preserve had a one dollar annual budget thanks to the 104th Congress.

The traffic on Cima Road dies down about an hour after sunset, so that instead of a vehicle every twenty minutes to an hour you have a vehicle every three or four hours. Last month the one vehicle I noticed at night was the Park F-150, the driver aiming a flashlight at my frost-covered head there on the open ground as he or she drove past. Camping farther from the road would likely mean less intrusion. There’s something I like about camping 500 yeards away from the traffic. They don’t know I’m there, which makes me feel like I’m getting away with something.

I wish more people would get to know the place, even if it means I have competition for my campsite. Maybe Reid would have more trouble pushing the Ivanpah Airport through if people knew about the place. Y’all are welcome to come drop in when I’m out there this summer. Bring your own water.

Thanks Chris!  Hope to see you in the desert one day soon!

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