September 15, 2006

Route Fifty

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Photo by this person.

In 1984 my brother got squooshed by a high-speed truck outside Buffalo, NY. A few days later I packed some things and got a drive-away car with a couple of friends, and we headed east. Over the Sierra Nevada, past the glare of Reno, and into the outback of US 50 through Nevada.

On my first trip through Nevada’s steppes the landscape seemed remote, alien. By my third trip I had warmed to the Great Basin desert, if not vice versa. The Humboldt Basin, which route interstate 80 follows, is picturesque but to a degree unchanging, at least until one begins to be able to distinguish the ranges drifting past. That hurried winter trip to visit my brother was the first I took outside the I-80 corridor. US 50 is deserted, more or less — its motto is “The Loneliest Road in America” — and where I-80 sticks mainly to the valley floors once you’re west of Toquima Summit, 50 transects each valley and climbs up into the mountains beyond.

That trip brought me my first up-close glimpse of Nevada’s mountains. The next day, it brought me my first glimpse of Utah’s West Desert, the Wasatch Range and the red rock country beyond. Over a quarter century I have edited my memories, remembering only the highlights and unable to remember the long procession of images past the relative motionlessness of my vehicle. I have done enough driving in Nevada, and Utah, and Eastern California since then to know the feeling well. You drive for what seems hours and the range in front of you grows only slightly closer. Visibility of a hundred miles, on a good day when the air is clear of LA’s smoggy overburden, and you find yourself wishing for a fencepost by which to gauge the accuracy of the speedometer. I know what it’s like. But I do not remember it along Route 50, and I have not been back since, at least not farther east than the road to Gabbs. Odd, that, because for years my memories of US 50 were often what came to mind when I thought of the intermountain West. But I haven’t been back since 1984.

There are days on which he would contest this assessment, but my brother survived his accident. Eleven days from today he’ll be flying out to visit Zeke, and after a day or two of walking the dog he and I will load up the truck, hie ourselves on out past the Sierra Nevada, and take US 50 east to Utah to look for trilobites. We may head over into the Red Rock country as well, to buy Siona’s mom a cup of coffee in Moab. Or we might look for a stand of yellow September aspen to sleep beneath for a few days.

I am looking forward to the horizon. I am looking forward to a valley full of cool sagebrush-scented air in morning, the tang of juniper and piñon smoke still clinging to my hair.

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US 50 is one of the secret wonder routes of this continent.  I love that road.  Odd you went this way though: past the glare of Reno, and into the outback of US 50, which implies you went east of Reno to the Fernley junction, then south down to Silver Springs on the other great US Hwy 95, to then head East on 50 towards Fallon and beyond.  Fallow is such a hugely sucky place; US Navy and all if you don’t mind TopGun antics ruining that section of your drive.

You could of course, and it sounds like you might, take 50 the whole way, going up through the gold country, over into the Tahoe Basin, dropping down through Carson (not stopping at the KitCat Club) City, and out and beyond.  Ely, and those amazing mountains that seem as though no one knows they exist.  Damn it, now i wanna go..

And creosote! Don’t forget the creosote.

For me it was Hwy 395 along the Eastern Sierra. I still remember driving north on it, and my first view of Mammoth Mountain, its sleek bulk looming up out of the mountainous background, covered in late-fall snow.

That first look was just highway, and the facade of mountains. But as I lived there, the picture deepend and complexified. I got to know the migration routes of the mule deer, the hidden hot springs, the hiking routes, the old stagecoach road, the crooked streams, all the trails that my friends Ranger and Tito hiked and loved with me, all of that and more woven into and through that first simple picture.

I miss it.

If you see any bumper stickers that say

London, Paris, Rome, New York, Moab.

Let me know.

Gods, I miss those mountains.

It looks like the ass of nowhere. I’m utterly jealous.

I wanna go too, especially for the trilobites - though I’m not sure about a U-Dig fossil place - what do you think of that, Chris? Seems like you talked about this once before? (sorry to be late here - I’ve been busy)

I don’t have an intrinsic problem with u-dig places as long as they’re run ethically. This one’s on private land, and it seems anything good gets remanded to the state. The place I went to in Wyoming a few years back is similar.

One of the responsibilities of the head-end brakeman on a freight train--back when we still had real train crews--was to make what was called a “rolling inspection” of a train going the other way while your train sat in the clear on a siding. What you did, when your train had stopped and the opposing train was getting close, was to get off and walk to the far side of the main line, so you saw one side and your engineer saw the other. (You were looking for overheated wheel bearings--"hotboxes"--sticking brakes, shifting loads or anything else dangerous.) Early in 1966 my seniority wasn’t enough to keep me working in Northern California, so I “borrowed out” to Indio where the agro-industry of the Imperial Valley kept everybody busy all year ‘round. One night the dispatcher put us into a siding somewhere East of Niland. The engineer was engrossed in chat with the rear brakeman who’d stayed ahead to help with some switching later on; I waited until I saw a headlight in the distance, climbed down, crossed the track and waited. And waited, and waited. After about 20 minutes here he came, going like a sonofabitch. I rolled him by, then got back on the engine. “Did you get off to roll him by?” asked the hoghead. “Yes.” “Shit, we thought you got off to take a leak. He was 25 miles from here when you saw that headlight.”

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