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In 1984 my brother got squooshed by a high-speed truck outside Buffalo, NY. A few days later I packed some things and got a drive-away car with a couple of friends, and we headed east. Over the Sierra Nevada, past the glare of Reno, and into the outback of US 50 through Nevada.
On my first trip through Nevada’s steppes the landscape seemed remote, alien. By my third trip I had warmed to the Great Basin desert, if not vice versa. The Humboldt Basin, which route interstate 80 follows, is picturesque but to a degree unchanging, at least until one begins to be able to distinguish the ranges drifting past. That hurried winter trip to visit my brother was the first I took outside the I-80 corridor. US 50 is deserted, more or less — its motto is “The Loneliest Road in America” — and where I-80 sticks mainly to the valley floors once you’re west of Toquima Summit, 50 transects each valley and climbs up into the mountains beyond.
That trip brought me my first up-close glimpse of Nevada’s mountains. The next day, it brought me my first glimpse of Utah’s West Desert, the Wasatch Range and the red rock country beyond. Over a quarter century I have edited my memories, remembering only the highlights and unable to remember the long procession of images past the relative motionlessness of my vehicle. I have done enough driving in Nevada, and Utah, and Eastern California since then to know the feeling well. You drive for what seems hours and the range in front of you grows only slightly closer. Visibility of a hundred miles, on a good day when the air is clear of LA’s smoggy overburden, and you find yourself wishing for a fencepost by which to gauge the accuracy of the speedometer. I know what it’s like. But I do not remember it along Route 50, and I have not been back since, at least not farther east than the road to Gabbs. Odd, that, because for years my memories of US 50 were often what came to mind when I thought of the intermountain West. But I haven’t been back since 1984.
There are days on which he would contest this assessment, but my brother survived his accident. Eleven days from today he’ll be flying out to visit Zeke, and after a day or two of walking the dog he and I will load up the truck, hie ourselves on out past the Sierra Nevada, and take US 50 east to Utah to look for trilobites. We may head over into the Red Rock country as well, to buy Siona’s mom a cup of coffee in Moab. Or we might look for a stand of yellow September aspen to sleep beneath for a few days.
I am looking forward to the horizon. I am looking forward to a valley full of cool sagebrush-scented air in morning, the tang of juniper and piñon smoke still clinging to my hair.
Posted by: Chris Clarke
Categories:
Desert
Family
Biography
Paleontology
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